Sunday, April 27, 2014

New Year Part 3


"That belongs in a museum!"
- Indiana Jones

Happy Thai New Year ya’ll! Sorry this has been a little delayed but I got wacked with food poisoning right after I got back. My motivation for anything outside of Mad Men re-runs hasn’t been high.

Last Friday night, Jon flew in from America. This was my first visitor from the US, so I was pretty stoked to show him around Thailand.  That Saturday Songkran began, the Thai New Year that lasts 4 days. Songkran is a Buddhist holiday. Thais will go to the temple to sprinkle water on the Buddha for good luck and to pay homage.



Airport welcome sign. Google won't let me rotate it

Flash forward to 2014. People are running down the street shooting complete strangers with water guns. Pickup trucks have their beds full of people dumping buckets of water on those walking by. Traffic is in a complete gridlock as music blasts among this giant water fight. Motorbikes/cars that are driving are no safer and are getting pelted as well. It was complete madness. If you made eye contact with anyone, you could expect to be soaked within seconds. 

That being said, this only really happens in the downtown area. We were able to see Songkran in a few different locations around Bangkok.

1.      My apartment: This was very mellow. Since I live right off a highway, there wasn’t much activity going on. That being said, we ended up walking by the woman who runs a nearby shoe stand. She saw us and sprinkled some water from a bucket, saying, “Happy Songkran, happy happy water.” We laughed and walked by her. She then paused to think for a second, grinned, and then chased after us and poured the whole bucket on me. It’s the holidays.

2.      Khao San Road: The backpacker haven area was out of control. There were so many people you could hardly walk. The music, water guns, and hoses were all in full force. There was almost a foot of water in the street. We didn’t stay long.

3.      RCA: This is the young Thai nightlife area I had never been to before. This was totally packed as well. We ended up finding this one street that was completely blocked off, with a dance party filling the road. It may as well been raining.

The next day we took an overnight bus up to Chiang Mai. This is where the "best" Songkran celebration was going to be. We got in at about 9 AM and killed time until we picked up our other friend from home, Sean. He's been doing relief work in the Philippines, so it was a few hours flight to get to Chiang Mai. Really blessed that two of my best friends were able to come visit.

Midday we went to the airport to pick up Sean. With festivities already in full swing, getting his luggage to the hotel posed a problem. After getting dropped off at our hostel, we had a Call of Duty like run to his hotel down the street. He covered his important goods in a poncho and we acted as security detail to get him to the extraction point (the hotel) safely (dry). We ended up making it but made the wise decision to leave valuables at home or put our phones in ziploc bags.



This is the most disappointed I’ve been for not having my camera with me in Thailand. But if I brought it out, it would be destroyed immediately. This video is a very accurate representation of what those days were link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYo3T4jzZpA

Yeah. That awesome.

But by late afternoon, the sun starts to go down and the water starts to seem a little colder. The water fight starts dwindling around dinner time and by 8 PM the action has all but stopped. If you did get hit by water after 8, the guy who hit you is just a terrible person.

It’s a lot of fun but living in constant fear of getting drenched did seem to drag after a while. We spent the last day lounging by the pool in the hotel. Oh yeah, the hotel.

We initially booked a hostel for Jon and I. Sean tried booking a bed but it was already full, since his decision to come was last-minute. He settled for a hotel down the road. This place was sick. Private pool, buffet breakfast (first time I had toast with jelly in 6 months), sauna, jacuzzi, the 9’s. When checking in, they asked if he wanted a double or two twins. The lightbulbs went off and Sean got the two twins. There's a bed for one of us.

The next day, the bathroom ceiling started leaking. They had to move us to a new room. During this transfer, Sean’s classic good looks and charm was able to get us a third bed for free. So by the end of our stay, our bags were sleeping in the hostel, and us in the hotel. Yeah buddy!

Something crazy happened on our last day. We were walking to get lunch and ran into one of our friends from high school, Meg. I saw her when she first got Thailand to begin her Southeast Asia backpacking swing but had no idea she was back. It was a wild coincidence and it was great for all of us to catch up.

And we had to make one quick stop by the tiger temple before we left. They did do some more explanation for how they’re not drugged but I’m still skeptical.




The final leg of the trip was to see Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Since Jon had limited time here, we decided to fly. Angkor Wat is a massive temple complex located in the city of Siem Reap. At the airport, I went to purchase a re-entry permit. This lets me leave Thailand without voiding my work visa. A sign at the counter says the whole process should take 15 minutes. Something seemed to be wrong with my passport because the attendant kept calling people over to look at it. When I asked what the issue was they said, “Oh. No problem.”

After an hour and fifteen minutes of “no problem,” I got my passport and re-entry permit. But hey, I didn't miss the flight. No problem.

Arriving at the Siem Reap airport was interesting. We got in a long line to get our tourist visas, which cost $20 and a passport photo. One of my friends realized that he forgot his photo at home. When he inquired at the desk about what to do, the attendant said it would cost $1 since he didn't have it. He waited for them to take his picture but they just stamped his passport and told him he was good. For customs, there was a big bin to drop off your declaration form. I’m giving you two big thumbs up Cambodia. This has got to be the quickest way to enter a country.

I had to remind myself to stop comparing Cambodia to Thailand, which I realized after leaving the country, now feels like home. Whoo hoo! Take that culture shock! Here are some observations about Siem Reap:

1.      Siem Reap is extremely touristy. You can’t walk five minutes without being approached by a tuk-tuk driver (Tuk-tuks are like small taxis on three wheels). These conversations tend to go like this:

“Hello Mister? Where are you going? Tuk-Tuk?
“No thank you, I’m just walking.”
“You want a tuk-tuk?
“No thank you.”
“You want lady?”
“No.”
“You want lady? Boom-boom?”
“People actually say that? No.”

This happened constantly. I frankly got pretty irritated since I never needed of a cab ride or a prostitute. But again, this happens in Thailand too. I think I'm just used to it.
2.      I thought Thai traffic was crazy. This is actually a free-for-all. I saw one traffic light the entire time I was there. Stop signs? Not a chance. At one point, cars switched from driving on the right side of the road to the left. It's one of those "Let go and let God" situations.
3.      Markets dominate the town. Knock-off backpacks, watches, headphones; everything is everywhere. My bartering abilities still worked though- I was able to knock at $37 watch down to $16. Still got it.
4.      Cambodia operates with three different types of currency. The American dollar, the Thai Baht (about 32 baht to a dollar), and the Cambodian Riel (4,000 riel to a dollar). Naturally, this got fairly confusing when my wallet looked like I had just won Monopoly.

We arranged for taxi driver to take us to Angkor Wat for the sunrise at 5:00 AM. The temples look very beautiful as the sun comes up. I woke up in the middle of the night and freaked out thinking I saw a ghost. It turns out it was just a hanging white towel. I rolled over to check the time- 5:15! My alarm didn’t go off! We quickly mobilized and thankfully the taxi driver was still waiting outside.

It was slightly after sunrise when we got there but it was still incredible regardless. He also took us around to other temples in the Angkor Wat complex as well.

















This is where they filmed part of the first Tomb Raider movie



It was 2:00 PM when we got back and we were exhausted. No one at our hotel decided to take advantage of the pool, so it was ours for the day.



The last day we went to Siem Reap war museum. This museum had remnants from the Cambodian Civil War. I had heard of the Killing Fields but didn’t really know the whole story.

Wikipedia is a much better source (seriously) but here’s a very brief recap of Cambodian history for the last 40 years. A civil war broke out in 1970 between supporters of the Prime Minister and supporters of the King (who would later be called the Khmer Rouge). The Khmer Rouge eventually gained power and began a mass genocide. An estimated 1-3 million people were killed; a majority of them political figures and those who were educated. The U.S. and Soviet Union fueled the fight by providing military equipment to the opposing sides. The Khmer Rouge won the war in 1975 but conflict continued up until the early 90’s. Peace finally came in 1998 when both sides agreed that enough was enough.

Walking through the museum was incredibly informative and depressing. Seeing photos of children roaming the streets with guns, soldiers losing limbs from landmines, and the destruction of the country was very sobering. As sad as it is, it put the country in perspective for me. It was only 15 years ago that the country was really able to move on from this tragedy. It lost its best minds and most of its industry. It unfortunately makes the aggressive tourist tactics and prostitution viable options for its people. 

Easter Sunday rolled around on our last day. I tried finding a church but all the services were in Khmer. Makes sense, this is Cambodia. We were able to find a three course meal for $12- including stuffing, chicken wrapped in bacon, and cheesecake. A great end to the trip.

Well, sort of. Our bus the next day left at 5:30 AM. While draining, it was quite an adventure to get to the Thai- Cambodian border, physically cross, go through immigration, and get back to Nakhon Pathom. It was a 10-hour ordeal, but it only cost $10.


Thai-Cambodian border. Cool.

A week from now I’m off to the Philippines! I’ll get to see Sean do his work documenting relief for Typhoon Yolanda and our family friends, the Chuas. And then school starts a few days after I get back. Fast times baby.

Mark

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Road Trippin'

"It's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark...and we're wearing sunglasses." - The Blues Brothers

Last weekend I was invited to go on a road trip with some other teachers from my school. One teacher's daughter was a medical student in Hat Yai, a town way in the south of Thailand. She was picking her car up in Nakhon Pathom and bringing it back down to school. The plan was to drive down over three days and then we would fly back. We picked up another teacher and the four of us hit the road.

As I've mentioned several times before, Thais are very laid-back when it comes to time and deadlines. This seems to apply to road trips as well. Our first day was very relaxed. We left late morning and stopped every hour or two. Sometimes for food, sometimes for coffee, sometimes at temples, sometimes for the bathroom. No rush getting to where we needed to go.



Big Buddha

We stopped for the night in Kuiburi, a rural fishing town. A few things I learned about fishing:.

-         Shrimp are grown on farms. Isn't that fun?
-         Squid are attracted to green light. The fisherman will wait till dark, then shine green light from their boats. The squid rise to the surface and are then caught. Kind of reminded me of this .http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-Esh4W3dfI.

The teachers had family friends who owned a resort there. They were gracious enough to let us stay there for the night and took us on a boat tour at a nearby national park. Pretty cool.






The next day the trip was more of the same with frequent stops along the way. In the afternoon we stopped at a Buddhist monastery. I didn't take any photos (thought it might be a little rude) but it was one of the coolest places I've seen here. The monastery was tucked away on this mountain and there were monks and nuns meditating throughout. Middway up the mountain was a giant boat. Just a giant boat on the side of the mountain. It's a serene space to help the monks meditate, with boat acting as a giant metaphor. I'm not quite sure what the metaphor is but it's a metaphor.

I learned that it is very common for Thais to stop at temples while traveling long distances. They pay their respect to Buddha and pray for a safe journey. I like that.

We stopped later that day at Pattalung. This is another small town that borders a large lake. What's unique about it is that the lake is filled with lotus flowers. We walked around the pier at night but most of the lotuses were already closed because it was so late.



The next morning we awoke at 6:00 AM for a boat tour of the lake. With the sun up for hardly up for an hour, the lotuses were in full bloom. We cruised around the lake soaking in the scenery. I'd love to start every morning like this.






We grabbed some quick coffee and breakfast and were on the road for the last stretch. By the time we arrived in Hat Yai, we had only two hours before our flight. Since we hardly had any time, we just got food and headed to the airport.

Hat Yai is a big shopping destination for Sourthern Thais and Malaysians. It has lost popularity recently because of some violence from the combating tribes in the southern provinces. The daughter deadpanned, "Yeah, instead of it being a tourist destination it's more of a terrorist destination." Gotcha..

This was my first time flying domestically in Thailand. So I was slightly anxious that our plane left in 50 minutes when we got in line for security. But five minutes later we got through security, so I really should stop worrying about these things. I was surprised that the airport was packed with Muslims. Even though Thailand is a Buddhist country, the south is very unique with Islam being the dominant religion. The place was full of Muslim families and friends sending off their loved ones.

Anyway, our plane was boarding and we still had to go through another security checkpoint (Still don't know why we had to go through security again. It was literally the exact same check as the first one). We hurried to our gate only to see that the plane had just landed. Like I said, I've still got to stop worrying about this stuff.

Short hour and half flight and we were back! Good weekend.

Movember
Most Thai men do not have facial hair. Socially in Thailand, not shaving makes you look lazy and unkempt. Normally I shave every day when school is in session. But I'm on break, I'm gonna let the beard shine for a bit.

Anyway, the kid I tutor one day realized that I had a small stuble. Quite honestly, it may be the first scruff he's ever seen. He broke into a grin and touched my facial hair. He burst out laughing and quickly both hands were massaging my chin. After this happened in two subsequent lessons, I'm resigning myself to shaving daily. It's just becoming too distracting in a lesson. We'll be going over shapes and he'll look up at me, start giggling, and start scratching my cheeks. Awful disruption.

April 11th is a very special day. My oldest homeboy Jon touches down in Thailand! We'll have a week of travel up north to Chiang Mai for Songkran (Thai new year) and then down to Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The blog might have to collect some dust until then.

That day also marks my 6-month Thaiversary. Time's flying!

Mark

Thursday, April 3, 2014

My Fake Travel Blog

“Hey, people who travel with your bed pillow. You look insane.”
-        Jim Gaffigan

Travel blogs are very popular and with good reason. They’re a great way to share your stories with friends and families back home. Since being here I’ve stumbled upon many blogs to see what’s going on with people in Thailand, or in other parts of the world. And while all are interesting, most engaging, many come off as sounding really, really pretentious.

I don’t think it’s intentional. People travelling abroad generally seem to be having a very powerful experience. But some blogs get a little high and mighty about their newfound cultural revelations. I’ve tried to make this blog not like that but I’m sure I’ve done it time to time.

So this week, I’ve decided to write in the vein of some of the other travel blogs I’ve read. I’m embracing my inner hipster, English major, and travel jackass. You’re welcome.

Whispers in the Wind: A timeless wanderer’s eclectic journey through Southeast Asia
Dream. Explore. Lift. Fall. Search. Pollenate. Find. Stretch. Live. Kale.

Fellow wanderers,

It has me. I don't how it happened. But it happened quickly. And it has me.

I awoke yesterday with an odd feeling coursing through my veins. It’s one that I’ve felt every day for the last six months. The insatiable feel of wanderlust.

I exited my apartment complex and was hit by the bright Thai sun. Perspiration kissed my shirt as I made my way to the local vendor. We exchanged a few words in Thai and I sat down at my table. The gust of the fan cooled my body as waited my food. Within minutes a plate of Pad kapow Guy was in front of me. I mixed the tender chicken and basil with the damp white rice. The yoke of the egg cracked and splashed yellow across my culinary tapestry. In enjoyed pure bliss for seven minutes as I consumed the local Thai flavor.

Departing the shop, I hailed a cab and made my way into Bangkok. My agenda for the day was simple: see the river that cuts through the city. My cab dropped me off at the BTS station Bang Wa. For those of you who don’t know, the BTS is Bangkok’s train system. It’s actually very impressive. A train arrives nearly every 5 minutes and you get almost anywhere in 45 minutes maximum. The only quirk is that the air conditioning is very frigid- bah!

The train dropped me off near the pier and I meandered towards the boats. The boats are very funny. They simply go from one side of the river to the other. It probably only takes about 10 minutes to walk across the bridge. By the time you wait for the boat to to fill up, it’s probably been 20 minutes. Some of them don’t even take money. The system is very odd.

I spent the afternoon exploring the labyrinth of sois (streets) that ran adjacent to the pier. Little shops and children filled the street and I soaked in the community.

Later that night I stopped at my favorite backpacker bar in Bangkok, The Vagabond’s Respite. There are I met a lovely group of travelers from Berlin, Uzbekistan, Norway, and Sydney. They were all young, beautiful, fit, wise, and well-travelled.We spent the evening discussing James Joyce, craft beers, woofing, scarfs, Putin, organic food, and naturally, every place we had ever travelled. It was a beautiful night and after saying goodbye to my new friends, I went home.

I flicked off the lights. The warm air from the fan grazed my skin. The heat was debilitating. After a half hour of tossing and turning, I decided to go for a walk on the road outside my apartment to clear my head.

It was one of those days when it's a minute away from snowing and there's this electricity in the air, you can almost hear it. Right? And this bag was just dancing with me. Like a little kid begging me to play with it. For fifteen minutes. That's the day I realized that there was this entire life behind things, and this incredibly benevolent force that wanted me to know there was no reason to be afraid, ever. Video's a poor excuse, I know. But it helps me remember... I need to remember... Sometimes there's so much beauty in the world, I feel like I can't take it, and my heart is just going to cave in.

Stay lost, stay confused,

Mark


P.S. Part of this story is made up. I'll leave that up to your interpretation. 

P.P.S. I'm never writing like this again.